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Bench Explainer

Energy Devices and Deeper Skin Tones: Wavelength, Cooling and the Questions to Ask

Much of the literature on aesthetic lasers was written around pale skin, and Los Angeles is one of the most diverse cities on earth.
Gloved practitioner in protective eyewear holds a laser handpiece near a reclining woman wearing eye shields

The early devices were tested on pale skin and the early settings were tuned for it. The early complications in darker skin were treated as anomalies rather than as the predictable physics they were.

A large share of the people considering energy treatments here have skin that the original device manuals did not have in mind.

This guide explains why melanin changes what a device does, which device families carry more risk for deeper tones and which carry less, and what a careful provider does differently. It ends with the questions that reveal whether a clinic has treated skin like yours.

The physics of the problem

Every energy device that uses light works by selective absorption. A wavelength is chosen because a target absorbs it more than the surrounding tissue does, so the target heats and the surroundings are spared.

Melanin absorbs light across the visible spectrum and well into the near infrared, with absorption falling as wavelength lengthens. In pale skin, the epidermal melanin is sparse enough that a device aimed at a vessel or a spot mostly passes through it.

In darker skin, the epidermis is itself a competing target. The energy meant for the spot is absorbed on the way in, and the surface heats.

The result is a burn, a blister, or an inflammatory injury that the skin answers with more pigment. That last response is the one that matters most.

Post-inflammatory hyperpigmentation, the dark patch that forms over an injured area, is the commonest complication of energy treatment in Fitzpatrick types IV, V and VI. The reverse, a pale patch where melanocytes were damaged, is less common and harder to correct.

Both are consequences of surface heating. Every adaptation a careful provider makes is an attempt to keep heat away from the epidermis.

Four pairs of green-tinted laser safety glasses lined up on a counter beside laser consoles

The Fitzpatrick scale and its limits

Providers classify skin by the Fitzpatrick scale, from type I, which always burns and never tans, to type VI, which never burns. It is a scale of sun response, not of ancestry, and it is a rough tool.

Two people of the same type can pigment very differently after injury. A history of dark marks after acne, insect bites or minor cuts tells a provider more than the type number does.

On the ground, the evidence points to asking that history question directly. A reader who knows their skin marks easily should say so, and a provider who does not ask has skipped a step.

Device families, from lower risk to higher

Radiofrequency and ultrasound

These do not use light at all, so melanin is irrelevant to their mechanism. Monopolar and bipolar radiofrequency and microfocused ultrasound heat tissue by current or by sound.

They are used across the full range of skin tones with no special adjustment for pigment. They are the tightening options of first resort for deeper skin, and the tightening guide covers what they can and cannot do.

Radiofrequency microneedling

Also color-blind in mechanism, since the energy is delivered through insulated needles below the epidermis. The needle injury itself can provoke pigment change, so conservative density and good aftercare matter.

The family is widely used on darker skin.

Long-wavelength lasers

The 1,064 nanometer neodymium YAG laser sits far enough into the infrared that melanin absorbs it weakly. That is why it is the standard choice for hair removal and vascular treatment in types IV to VI.

The non-ablative fractional lasers at 1,550 nanometers are used across the range with reduced density and longer intervals. The 1,927 nanometer thulium laser is used with care, because its superficial absorption heats the epidermis despite the long wavelength.

Subdermal lasers

Devices such as Endolift deliver their wavelength beneath the epidermis through a fiber, so the melanin layer is bypassed. The entry points and the heated field can still pigment.

The Endolift guide covers that risk.

Ablative fractional lasers

Carbon dioxide and erbium resurfacing injure the epidermis by design, and in deeper skin that injury pigments with some regularity. Erbium, with its lower thermal spread, is the less risky of the two.

Many providers will not perform fractional CO2 above type IV. Those who do use low density, careful pretreatment and long follow-up, and the resurfacing guide covers the choice.

Intense pulsed light and short-wavelength lasers

At the top of the risk list. IPL's broad spectrum includes the wavelengths melanin absorbs most, and the device cannot distinguish the melanin in a spot from the melanin in the skin around it.

Short-wavelength lasers such as the 532 nanometer KTP and the 755 nanometer alexandrite have the same problem to a lesser degree. Type IV skin is treated by some providers with long cutoff filters, low fluence and a test spot.

Types V and VI are generally declined. A clinic that offers an IPL photofacial to a type VI face without hesitation has not understood its own device, and the IPL guide sets out the alternatives.

What a careful provider does differently

Cooling first. Contact cooling through a chilled sapphire tip, cryogen spray timed before the pulse, or forced cold air across the skin all pull heat out of the epidermis while the target heats.

A handpiece that feels warm rather than cold is a warning.

Longer pulse durations spread the energy over time. The small melanin granules in the epidermis cool between the pulse's start and finish while the larger target does not.

Lower fluence and lower fractional density reduce the total heat load, at the cost of more sessions. Longer intervals between sessions let pigment settle before the next insult.

The test spot is the single most useful practice. A small area behind the ear or under the jaw is treated at the proposed settings, and the provider looks at it one to four weeks later before treating the face.

It costs a visit. It has prevented a great many dark patches.

Pretreatment with a topical lightening agent for several weeks before resurfacing, under the direction of the treating physician, is common practice for deeper tones and reduces the pigment response.

Strict sun avoidance before and after treatment matters more for this group than for any other. The aftercare guide covers it day by day.

The questions to ask

How many people with my skin type have you treated on this specific device in the past year? What settings do you use for my type, and how do they differ from your settings for a type II?

Will you do a test spot, and how long will you wait before treating my face? What cooling does this device use?

What is your rate of pigment change in skin like mine, and what do you do when it happens? Can I see before-and-after photographs of people with my skin tone, taken under the same lighting?

The last question deserves a note. Photographs of darker skin under different lighting are nearly useless.

A clinic whose gallery is entirely pale faces is telling you something about its experience, whether it means to or not. Put the same questions to every practice under consideration and compare the answers side by side.

Some local context

Los Angeles has excellent public science institutions, and several of them explain this physics better than any clinic handout. The absorption of light by pigment is standard optics.

The public lectures and outreach material from Caltech in Pasadena cover why different wavelengths behave differently in different materials, with no treatment attached at the end.

Its neighbor up the hill works on the same physics at a different scale. Instruments that read the composition of a distant surface from the light it absorbs rest on the same absorption curves a laser operator should know.

The public pages of NASA's Jet Propulsion Laboratory explain that spectroscopy in plain language, and a reader who follows them will never again accept "it targets the pigment" as a full answer.

None of this is required reading before a consultation. It is useful reading, because a provider's explanation of wavelength and melanin is easier to judge once the physics is familiar.

Readers who learn better by watching than by reading have options too. Science programming on PBS has covered both skin pigmentation and laser physics with a care that aesthetic marketing rarely matches.

A recovery week is also a week to keep a healing face out of the sun, and a family day indoors is one way to spend it. Museums with a light and color gallery are the natural choice.

The light and color exhibits at the California Academy of Sciences are a long drive north, and a good reason to take one.

Bench summary

Melanin competes for light, so every light-based device carries more surface risk in deeper skin. The risk rises from the long-wavelength lasers through the ablative lasers to IPL at the top.

Radiofrequency, ultrasound and subdermal devices sidestep the problem. A careful provider cools, lengthens pulses, lowers fluence and density, spaces sessions, pretreats, and does a test spot.

Ask for the count, the settings, the photographs and the test spot. Treat a clinic's confidence as no substitute for any of them.

About this guide

Laser Aesthetics Digest is an independent, non-clinical publication edited in Los Angeles. None of us holds a medical license, and we have no device to sell.

How claims are checked is set out in how we test. Decisions about your own skin belong with a licensed clinician who has examined it.

What readers ask shapes what we test

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There is no newsletter and nothing to join. If a consultation gave you an answer about your skin tone that did not match this guide, that is the next guide, and the method it will be checked by is set out in how we test.
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